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		<title>ICUR Digital Photography - Blogs</title>
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			<title>Photoshop Patch Tool</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/photoshop-patch-tool-117/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 21 Nov 2011 17:19:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The Photoshop Patch Tool is a tool that I just discovered last week taking one of Nik's online courses and the instructor shared this with us all. 
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">The Photoshop Patch Tool is a tool that I just discovered last week taking one of Nik's online courses and the instructor shared this with us all.<br />
<br />
The Clone Tool is what most of us use a lot in Photoshop, and in most cases it works well, but if you have a couple of areas or more to clone it can take up a bit of time to same the image right?<br />
<br />
<u><b>Now the Patch Tool<br />
</b></u><br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/patchtool.jpg" alt="Photoshop Patch Tool" border="0" /><br />
<br />
To access the patch tool, go to your healing brush menu in Photoshop and click on it and you should see the patch tool and select that.  See the image above.<br />
So how is this different from the Clone Tool?  Well the patch tool allows you to select the areas in the image that needs fixing weather small or large areas just by moving your mouse and go around the selected area in your image.<br />
<br />
A good example is removing unwanted stuff in a background all you need is an area to the left or right that is good and now select the area to be changed, with the patch tool once you have selected that area, move the selected area either left or right and watch how easy it will be fixed.  Another example is you have a hot spot on the breast of a bird, but to the right is perfect, select the hot spot with the tool and now move the selection to the right and the hot spot is gone.<br />
<br />
The last step is to clean up the images which have small flaws from the Patch Tool, it's not perfect but gets you close.  Just go back to the healing brush again and touch up those areas in your image.<br />
<br />
I have an image of an Egret that I have with a few hot spots on the bird and did the above process with the patch tool and I was very happy with the out come of this tool.<br />
<br />
So check this tool out for yourself and see what I mean, it is one that I will be using when required.<br />
<br />
Hope you enjoyed this little tip.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/photoshop-patch-tool-117/</guid>
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			<title>Iomega ix2 Hard Drive</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/iomega-ix2-hard-drive-116/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 10 Nov 2011 23:04:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I had the Drobo fan not pushing out enough air and need to find a fan that has the CFM flow rate of equal or greater air flow.  So the drive is down...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">I had the Drobo fan not pushing out enough air and need to find a fan that has the CFM flow rate of equal or greater air flow.  So the drive is down and and I nneded to have a backup in place just in case, and ended up with the Iomega drive from Futureshop which at first I was not sure that I was goin g to like this drive.  Well after getting home and testing the transfer rates, this drive suprised me in more ways with it's speed.<br />
<br />
I was getting 18-20 mb/seconds during transfers of my images and this device blew me away, if you are looking for a backup system, have a look into this unit. <br />
<br />
Below is the front and back view of the device.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6117/6333229306_efeeb46ffc_o.jpg" border="0" alt="6333229306 efeeb46ffc o" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6214/6332477717_1623207087_o.jpg" border="0" alt="6332477717 1623207087 o" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<u><b>Here are the specs below<br />
<br />
<br />
</b></u>The Iomega 35427 StorCenter ix2-200 CE Network Storage devices provide a simple solution to protect, manage and share your critical information, designed specifically for small- to medium- sized businesses, remote offices and workgroup environments. Purchase the Iomega 35427 StorCenter ix2-200 CE Network Storage today. <br />
<br />
<u><b>Flexible<br />
<br />
</b></u>The StorCenter family of network storage devices, available in multiple capacities, provide cross-platform file and iSCSI support for PC, Mac or Linux in either a compact desktop or rackmount form factor. <br />
<br />
<u><b>Simple<br />
</b></u><br />
Set up in just three easy steps, StorCenter devices easily integrate with your existing infrastructure to provide expanded storage, file sharing, and backup for all your critical data. <br />
<br />
<u><b>Robust<br />
</b></u><br />
Powered by enterprise-class EMC LifeLine™ software, StorCenter devices are the first in their class to be VMware certified. They offer integrated data protection through RAID technology and UPS support, and also feature user-replaceable hard drives, print sharing, and USB-attached HDD expansion. <br />
<br />
<u><b>Accessible<br />
</b></u><br />
Remote access functionality allows you to access your pictures, videos, and files from anywhere in the world. And torrent support facilitates peer-to-peer direct file sharing, making it easier and faster to download large media files. <br />
What It Is and Why You Need It <br />
Set up in just three steps! <br />
Robust data management powered by EMC LifeLine software <br />
Supports PC, Mac and Linux clients and is VMware and XenServer certified <br />
Remote access from anywhere in the world to your files via personal web address <br />
Built-in torrent support for peer-to-peer file sharing <br />
QuikTransfer button moves data from a USB drive or replicates your data without the need of a PC <br />
Iomega Personal Cloud is the most economical way to protect and share your valuable data <br />
<br />
<u><b>Specifications <br />
</b></u> <br />
Iomega StorCenter ix2-200 CE Network Storage 2TB    <br />
   Form Factor:         Desktop <br />
   Expansion Slots:       2 <br />
   Bandwidth:          10/100/1000 Mbps <br />
   Device Type:         NAS Enclosure <br />
   Form Factor:         NAS <br />
   Operating Systems:      LINUX   Mac   Windows <br />
  <br />
   Hot-Swap Bays:          2<br />
   Total Memory:         2 TB <br />
   10/100/1000 Mbps Ports:    2  <br />
   USB Ports (Total):       3  <br />
   RJ-45 Ports:         1 <br />
   Interface Type:       RJ-45 <br />
   USB 2.0 <br />
   (10/100/1000) Gigabit Ethernet <br />
 <br />
   Compatible RAID Levels:     1 <br />
   JBOD <br />
   Hard Drive Interface:      SATA II  <br />
   Number Of Hard Drives Bays:   2 <br />
   Total Storage Capacity:      2TB <br />
   Dimensions:   3.7 in x 8.0 in x 5.6 in<br />
<br />
I have to say one thing and that this blew away my Drobo even with Firwire 800, this thing pulls data down to the drives at twice the speed, and the unit does more with the software that comes with it.  But you can look that part up on your own to much to go through.  Again a system that is worth looking into.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/iomega-ix2-hard-drive-116/</guid>
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			<title>Colour Efex Version 4</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/colour-efex-version-4-115/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Oct 2011 17:58:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have to say that I really like the Nik Software products.  Although the only thing at the time I was not to thrilled with is their filter set even...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">I have to say that I really like the Nik Software products.  Although the only thing at the time I was not to thrilled with is their filter set even though I owned there selective version 2 software and the problem was the GUI and there was no presets to see the effects of the filter set, this was the same for their version 3 and I was not going to update the filter set to this version.<br />
<br />
Than I received an email from Nik about the new release of version 4, and they seemed to have made major changes, like a much better GUI, and now the have Presets that you can see the effects on your images right away.  I downloaded the demo version and played around and was blown away with this version.  Comes with 55 filters, you can apply more than one filter now and you can save combinations of filters into a recipe which you can name and save when you would want to use this combo again.<br />
<br />
You can use their plug-in with Photoshop, Lightroom etc...<br />
<br />
Main Screen<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/efex4/main.jpg" border="0" alt="main" /><br />
<br />
I'm not going through all the settings here, this is mainly just showing you the main screen and a before and after image that I have made up.  If you want more information, please visit the Nik Software site.<br />
<br />
On the left side here is all the filters that you have access to.  At the very top is the Filter Sets and these can be changed to the type of shooting you do, and filters within that set will be shown to you for that set, makes things a bit easy.  The other thing is that you can scroll through the filters and when you do a little box to the right will show up and will show you all the presets of that particular filter.  On the right side is all your adjustments that can be made and you have access to the U-Control points to select a certain area within the image or apply the filter to the whole image itself. <br />
<br />
I found that some of these filters produce amazing results and some even blew me away just with the default settings of the filter.  Download the demo and try this out for yourself it's a 14 day trial, and you you want to save 15% take one of their webinars courses.<br />
<br />
<hr /><br />
<br />
<u><b>Original Image converted to a Smart Object<br />
</b></u><br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/efex4/none-efex4.jpg" border="0" alt="none efex4" /><br />
<br />
In this original image, I converted the background to Smart Object, Right Click to select  I then used Nik Define 2, Viveza2 and Sharpen Pro 3.<br />
<br />
<hr /><br />
<br />
<u><b>Same Image, processed with Colour Efex 4<br />
</b></u><br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/efex4/efex4.jpg" border="0" alt="efex4" /><br />
<ul><li style="">So the first thing is that I used the Bi-Colours User Define filter to change the plan Jane sky.</li><li style="">Added the Tonal Contrast Filter, this really brings out some details.</li><li style="">The brilliance and warmth just add a small amount of this filter.</li><li style="">The Detail Extractor, pulls the details from the image.</li></ul>Look at the details on the wings and the over all jet.  All the settings are the same in this image as the original, and only thing removed was the efex portion in the original.<br />
<br />
Now I mentioned a Smart Object Filter, this would allow you to go back into any filter that you had applied and make adjustments as required comes in handy and saves you from doing this all over again.  All you need to do to makes this a Smart Object Filter is right click on the background layer and you will see the filter in there and click on it.<br />
<br />
Well that is it for this BLOG, and I hope that this was of some use to you, this was just a tad of the filters you have access to, as I said above download the demo and you will be amazed with this plug-in...<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.niksoftware.com/index/usa/entry.php" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Nik Software Web Site</a></blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/colour-efex-version-4-115/</guid>
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			<title>Drobo Storage Units</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/drobo-storage-units-114/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 04 Oct 2011 14:13:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a Drobo 2 system that holds 4 drives, but in the last bit I heard a noise coming from the unit and thought it was a drive that was on it's way...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">I have a Drobo 2 system that holds 4 drives, but in the last bit I heard a noise coming from the unit and thought it was a drive that was on it's way out, so I ended up picking up a couple of larger drives to be replaced.  So I started to pull one drive, than another and another one and the unit was still making a noise.  Hum, why on earth did I not think of this before, the fan in the back was making all that noise.<br />
<br />
So I ended up putting all the drives back in, let it do it's thing for a few hours, and started to think what I wanted to do with the fan issue.  A few hours later I decided that the unit is not covered under warranty and to get it repaired by Drobo would cost $69.00 for a contract plus the shipping costs.<br />
<br />
Now I don't have issues taking the unit apart to replace the fan, but if you don not feel comfortable with this, than send it in.<br />
<ul><li style="">Remove the 4 feet on the bottom of the unit.  Slide off the top cover.</li><li style="">On the front panel, there are 3 tabs, one on the top and on the bottom left and right sides.  Pull the front plate off.</li><li style="">Now you can remove the drive bay insert, just pull it out.</li><li style="">To remove the back plate, there is a screw on the bottom that needs to be removed.  Now where you pulled the plastic drive bay out, right in the back towards the top there are 2 plastic tabs, lift up on them and that back cover should come out.</li><li style="">On the top of the unit, if you look on the sides, you will noticed that this has a slide key on the plate.</li><li style="">Now you should have access to the fan in the back.</li></ul>Now the fans in these could be either 80mm or 90mm not sure, but I just cleaned the fan and put it back together, but it will get replaced in a week.<br />
<br />
The only thing you might see is the plug end on the new fan does not match, relax take breath don't sweat.  Remove the old fan, install the new one to make sure that it fits properly, and if so cut the wire on the old fan all the way up at the fan so that you have a enough wire to work with.  Now cut the plug off on the new fan, but closer to the plug this time to make sure you have enough to work with.<br />
<br />
Splice all the wires, and I would solder them together an cover the bare wires with electrical tape or shrink tubing if you have it.  <br />
<br />
Plug in the unit to insure that the fan is working and nice a quiet, pull the power from the unit and put it back together.  Nice and quiet now.<br />
<br />
Fan should run you max no more than $10.00.  Say 2 hours of your time, to take apart, replace fan, and of course clean the inside.  You just saved yourself  $60.00  plus the shipping charges.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/drobo-storage-units-114/</guid>
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			<title>Want to save money?</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/want-save-money-113/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 30 Sep 2011 14:26:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Have you been thinking about purchasing a plug-in for Photoshop, Lightroom etc... and want to save some money on the software. 
 
Well, I'm a fan of...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Have you been thinking about purchasing a plug-in for Photoshop, Lightroom etc... and want to save some money on the software.<br />
<br />
Well, I'm a fan of Nik Software and use their plugins in my work process.  Now I purchased most of their software, and went through the manuals and played around a bit and figured it all out, but yesterday I got an email of Free Webinars that they were having Thursday Night on Viveza2 and the new release of Color Efex Pro4.  So I booked both of these for the night and I have Viveza and a Demo of Color Efex Pro that I wanted to learn more about.<br />
<br />
So here is the deal, the webinar is about 40 to 45 minutes long, and I found that I learned a few things on each one, and in fact I hope to watch more for the other Plug-ins not from just Nik Software but with the other plug-ins I have.<br />
<br />
Now on the 2 Webinars that I took and watched last night, NIK Software offered as part of taking part a 15% on the purchase of there Suite, or one Plugin and it even applies to upgrades.<br />
So if you are thinking about the purchase of a plug in from a company, you may want to participate in a free webinar and you may just end up with a discount for your purchase.  All it takes is just a bit of time on your part.<br />
<br />
If Nik Software does this, than I'm sure that the others are doing the same thing.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/want-save-money-113/</guid>
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			<title>Catalog Your Images</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/catalog-your-images-112/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 21 Sep 2011 15:39:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>One major obstacle that can sneak up on you very fast is how you store your images on your hard drive on your PC. 
 
First of all before I begin, I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">One major obstacle that can sneak up on you very fast is how you store your images on your hard drive on your PC.<br />
<br />
First of all before I begin, I must STRESS that it is important for you to backup those images onto another external drive, if you have a hard drive failure your images will be lost forever. And my backups are copied onto 2 other devices.<br />
<ul><li style="">None boot drive on PC.</li><li style="">Drobo Device.</li><li style="">Home Server.</li><li style="">Once the images have been placed into proper folders, Mirror Folder will copy to Drobo, Home Server automatically.</li></ul>The reason for this BLOG is that I noticed that members had asked how to go about this, and the other day I got a call from a friend of mine asking me for advice on how I go about my Catalog process and what I do with new images.<br />
<br />
<u><b><font size="4"><font color="#b22222">What works for me may not work for you, but you can use this as a guide</font></font>.</b></u>  <br />
<br />
I sat down one night after I found that all my images had been all over the place when I started out and it was very hard to find images that I had taken for some time. <br />
What I ended up with is a folder system to place all my images, and did this by categories.<br />
<br />
I have folders for Nature, and inside I would have Mammals, Birds, Reptiles etc.  Next Landscapes, Aviation, Events, People etc...  <br />
The idea is that if I need to find an image or images I would be able to at least go to a folder where those images should be.  As I mentioned that this works for me, but may not for you.<br />
<br />
I like to photograph birds, and have a lots of them, so in the Nature Folder and under Birds, I have it categorized by bird types and I used a bird book to setup all the areas, and once I photographed a bird or birds they would be put into the proper area that I used from the bird book. This is the only area that I have that is nested with many folders, all the others are very simple in comparison.<br />
<br />
After I sorted all this out on paper I did the following:<br />
<br />
Created a folder called &quot;Master Digital Images&quot;<br />
In in this area I started to create all the folders for my images, but I have not moved any images into this area at this time and you will see why below.  Also I did the same thing for my wife's images, just a slight name change to the Master folder.  Once done, the hard work will begin, trust me if you have a lot of images this is going to taken some time.<br />
<br />
Now what I do is look at the images for Composition, Sharpness, Exposure, Clipping<br />
<ul><li style="">Remove duplicate images keep 2 if in doubt.  Keep sharp images only.</li><li style="">Exposures if under or over exposed and cannot saved in PS delete, keep the ones that can be saved.</li><li style="">Clipping delete if you cannot recover them in CS5 with content aware.</li><li style="">Composition if you don't like it remove the file, this could be clipping, distractions etc.</li></ul>Now all the folders are in place and you can add them as you go along if need be.  The next step is to go through every single image, and view them in Lightroom or Photo Mechanic or what ever you view your images with, I use Photo Mechanic for my use.  What I do is use the rating function as is or 0 is keepers and a rating of 1 are ones that I will delete this makes it easy to go through the images and flag all the ones that I don't want.  Once I'm done remove all the rating flags except the rating of 1 which are the ones I want to delete and CTRL-A to select all and hit the delete key.  <font color="#ffff00"><b>PLEASE BE CAREFUL HERE! </b></font>and make sure that you have selected the right rating flag...<br />
<br />
Now you are ready to move your images into their folders, but before you do consider using IPTC info:<br />
Metadata are critical to photo business<br />
<br />
They are critical by providing important information about the image and by describing it properly. IPTC Photo Metadata is made to describe and administrate photographs and to provide the most relevant rights related information. This way metadata makes visual content easily accessible by human language terms or machine readable codes.  In other words is that you will be able to find your images in the catalog very easy if you add IPTC data with your images or they are called Tags in Lightroom.<br />
<br />
I can find any images in Lightroom which I use as a Catalog for my images and find any image or images taken in Florida for example, or find any Hummingbirds that I have taken this is up to you on how and what you want in the IPTC metadata.<br />
<br />
Now this is my process and it works for me this way, you can do the same or you can make it less complicated if you like it's all up to you and your needs.<br />
<br />
One last thing, Create a Folder called New Images and when ever you get home you can download all your images into this folder and go through the new images and delete the ones your don;t want and than you can move the new images in their proper folder once you are down.  I cannot beleive the amount of images I had in the first place and second I deleted thousands of images that I had kept all this long.  Saved tons of hard drive space.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/catalog-your-images-112/</guid>
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			<title>Data Recovery Procedures unveiled!</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/tibsy/data-recovery-procedures-unveiled-111/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 29 Aug 2011 13:11:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Data is something which computer systems have been designed for. Keeping your precious and valuable data stored on some reliable medium is always a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Data is something which computer systems have been designed for. Keeping your precious and valuable data stored on some reliable medium is always a wise practice throughout decades. But imagine, you consider the medium safe for your data and all of a sudden you need to get the data for use, and you realize that the physical medium on which you saved the data has ditched you. It has been severely damaged. Now what? The loss would be more about the data than the medium. The media can be purchased or replaced, but the loss for data is irreparable. This is where the companies jump into action.<br />
<br />
Now let’s take a very common scenario into consideration, a damaged hard disk. But wait a second; keep in mind that damaged hard disk should not be dealt on your own. Most of the times, the end user tries to examine the hard disk by himself, resultantly damaging it even more without even touching it. What really happens is that once a platter on a hard disk is affected, it gets more prone to getting dust from air and gets it settled to the surface of the platter. This dust may settle down between the read/write head and the platter surface, thereby creating more complications for future data reading from the same hard disk. To get your hard disk fixed, you need to contact the companies or technical help provider whose expertise comes under the recovery category.<br />
<br />
Common Recovery procedures:<br />
<br />
•	Let’s have a look at some other physical damaged device, like a printer circuit board (PCB). What the experts do for recovery is!<br />
•	They replace the damaged printer circuit board with a matching printer circuit board from a healthy hard drive.<br />
•	Perform a live printer circuit board swap.<br />
•	Read/write head assembly from another healthy drive to the effected drive.<br />
•	Remove the platters of the original damaged drive and replace the effected ones with new platters.<br />
<br />
These are separate steps but often they are used in a combination for recovery. This is not all; the companies that come under recovery category offer a wide range of their own developed procedures. They are purely technical in nature and its better that they are not disclosed here because they are not suitable for practice by non- technical people. The companies also give you a warranty of their work, that if the recovery physical hardware is still malfunctioning, the company is responsible for it and will settle it once again. <br />
<br />
Now whether you use Windows or Mac, data recovery is an important process when files seem to get lost. The physical damage is never dependent on the type of operating system that you’re using. So the chances of data recovery in Windows are the same as the chances of <a href="http://mackeeper.zeobit.com/mac-recovery-software" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">data recovery software mac</a>. You need to know the root problem, i.e. hardware malfunctioning, and the solutions are available everywhere. Companies such as Kroll Ontrack, SalvageData, etc will help you through this difficult job.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>tibsy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/tibsy/data-recovery-procedures-unveiled-111/</guid>
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			<title>Capture NX</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/capture-nx-110/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 21 Aug 2011 19:45:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I had a member on Forum that purchased Capture NX, but the problem is that he still has all the Actions and Plug-Ins that he wants to still use in...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">I had a member on Forum that purchased Capture NX, but the problem is that he still has all the Actions and Plug-Ins that he wants to still use in Photoshop.<br />
I'm also was in the same position with this problem really had a hard time at first even using Capture NX, but a buddy of mine had me over and should me how to take advantage of some of the features in the software<br />
<br />
<u><b>Let me started out with my basic work flow first.</b></u><br />
<br />
Photo Mechanic to view and remove the images I don't want.<br />
Launch Capture NX on the image or images that I will be working on.<br />
Next the final stage is Photoshop.<br />
<br />
Now the good thing is that all these programs tie into each other in other words, Photo Mechanic will launch Capture NX, and then from there Capture NX will than launch Photoshop.  If this was not the case I would more than likely drop Capture NX in my post process.<br />
<br />
Capture NX is great software to edit your Nikon NEF files, you can do about everything that PS can and they even have a Plug-In for NIK Color Efex just for the software.  That is the only company that I know of that supports this product. Now the thing is that if you don't have any software tied into Photoshop and money invested and don't want to purchase PS than by all means this could do the job for you, and as all software you may want to look around for tutorials on the Internet as there is plenty of it out there.  Right now the only thing I will discuss is my work flow with NX.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Once you launch Capture NX and have a image loaded into the software you have the basic adjustments.<br />
</b></u><br />
Exposure Compensation<br />
Contrast<br />
Highlight Protection<br />
Shadow Protection<br />
Saturation<br />
Crop Tool<br />
Straighten Tool<br />
<br />
Now the one thing that has come up is using the Double Threshold in the histogram area, and clicking on that and adjusting the marker on the left to give you more blacks where need, I found that this does nothing at all unless you use the black point tool on the top of the screen for the black areas in the image.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Next go to Adjust, Light, D-Lighting.<br />
</b></u><br />
Click on the button that says Better Quality (HQ).<br />
Now adjust the Shadow Adjustment to the way you like the image.<br />
<br />
Next go to Adjust, Color, Color Booster, and adjust to suit for the image.  If you need to protect skin areas make sure you also check that box.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Next go to Adjust, Focus, High Pass.<br />
<br />
</b></u>Now you should see that the image on your screen has changed don't worry about it here.  Now what you want to do here is move the Radius slider to get the details to start showing within the image and you can push it just a bit more if you like but I suggest not to push it too much as you may end up with noise or artifacts within the image. What this is doing is sharpening the edges of the images and a bit of the image itself.  Next step after you had made these changes with the slider click on the Opacity drop down and select Overlay.<br />
Now adjust the slider down between 20 and 30 should be perfect. As you can see by moving the slider the sharpness changes within the image, but we don't want that to be at 100% the final sharpen is done in PS.<br />
<br />
As I mentioned these are the main tools that I use in NX and playing around with the other functions as I go along.  Also a good tutorial bu Jason O'Dell is worth getting and there is tons of stuff that he covers about NX.<br />
<br />
When your are done, go to file Open With, I have mine to open PS in 64 bit and away you go.<br />
<br />
<b><u>Other features to play with.<br />
<br />
</u></b>Auto Retouch works pretty darn good.<br />
Red Eye Removal.<br />
Color Control Points.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/capture-nx-110/</guid>
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			<title>BlackRapid Strap</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/blackrapid-strap-109/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 28 Jun 2011 17:31:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The BlackRapid camera strap was something that I was looking at just over a month ago, and checking all the reviews on this product was just amazing...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">The BlackRapid camera strap was something that I was looking at just over a month ago, and checking all the reviews on this product was just amazing to see all the positive results form those that purchased the strap.  The one thing that kept coming up was the comfort of the strap with the camera on it.  At this point I never purchased one, nor did I pursue the BlackRapid strap.<br />
<br />
Then I called Glen about getting out last weekend and we talked a bit and he mentioned this to me and I thought that I heard about this product, and I listen to him telling me about 2 co-workers one one having one version of the strap and the other guy had another version that had a shoulder harness and that he tried both out and he liked the one with the shoulder harness.  And that he went out and purchased one and he really likes it.  So I asked him to send me the link and sure enough this was what I was looking at over a month ago.<br />
<br />
So the next day I started to read reviews and check out some of the videos from the BlackRapid site and I started thinking about getting one of these.  My reason in looking into this in the first place is that getting out on the trails in Algonquin Park with the camera over my neck and climbing up a step hill the first thing that we have all gone through is the bouncing around and make in uncomfortable for us, so than we place the camera over our head and have the camera around are waists, but it still can move forward on us.<br />
<br />
Now I have to say that looking at this strap that your first thoughts are how can it be comfortable.  It's just another camera strap, and that was my first thoughts about it when I started to look at this.  But if you look at the reviews it says otherwise, and hearing from Glen his take on it made me decide to get one.  So I went out this week and got one and got home and took the strap out of the bag, adjusted the strap and put on the Nikon D700 along with the 70-200mm lens.  Wow, this thing is as good as others have stated, comfortable you feel no weight on your shoulders at all and in fact not even on your waist.<br />
<br />
One thing is that they are not cheap and this depends on the Strap you purchase, but here in Canada they are much more and I cannot understand why we pay dearly at times for this products.<br />
<br />
<hr /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=246&amp;d=1309281341" border="0" alt="Name:  rs-sport-bag.jpg
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<br />
<br />
This is the information that I found out the BlackRapid Web Site<br />
<br />
<u><b>The Original Camera Sling.<br />
</b></u><br />
The R-Strap is the most innovative camera strap ever to hit the market.This patent-pending piece of equipment offers unparalleled ease of access to your camera and peace of mind.<br />
<br />
The R-Strap is worn diagonally across the torso from shoulder to hip and is adjustable to fit most photographers.The pad has a mesh underside for comfort and breathability.<br />
<br />
Our locking FastenR connects the R-Strap to the tripod socket located on either the camera body or the lens.Once connected, the camera hangs upside down, resting securely at your side or in the small of your back, with the lens pointing behind you.<br />
<br />
With the camera at your hip or behind your back, you can maneuver easily through a crowd, carry a tripod or other gear, or simply have both hands free.When you’re ready to take the shot, the camera quickly glides up the strap into shooting position.<br />
<br />
<br />
<hr /><br />
One thing I like is that you can lock the place a lock on the strap from your backside to stop the camera going into your backside, and if you want to lock the camera down, there is a lock on the fron that you bring down and this locks the camera from moving to the front or back thus keeping both your hands free well hiking.  This strap will last for years and I think that this is one of the best camera straps that I really like for getting on the trails.<br />
<br />
Here is an image below of the sport version, as you can see it has a harnness that goes under your arm, this prevents the shoulder strap from moving and making this even more secure.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/blackrapid/rs-sport.png" border="0" alt="rs sport" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Just checkout the reviews on the Black Rapid camera strap and you will see what others have to say about it... For me I'm liking mine and I'm sure that this is going to be very good on the trails in Algonquin Park.<br />
<br />
Here is the link.    Click Here -----&gt;   <a href="http://www.blackrapid.com/product/camera-strap/rs-7/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Black Rapid</a></blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/blackrapid-strap-109/</guid>
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			<title>Neutral Density Filters</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/neutral-density-filters-108/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jun 2011 13:44:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Neutral density filters come in all sizes and types and strengths, and even prices.  You have the type that screw onto the front of your lens, you...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Neutral density filters come in all sizes and types and strengths, and even prices.  You have the type that screw onto the front of your lens, you have the ones that are made of high grade plastic or resin, like the Cokin and Lee filters as well you have the graduated and and non graduated types.  As we all know that these filters will cut down on the amount of light in a partial area like skies and or the whole subject area.<br />
<br />
So let me talk about the Cokin and Lee filters for second.  These filters come in sheets of plastic or resin and the two systems variable in sizes from each other, the Cokin filters are smaller in size and are cheaper in costs where as the Lee filters are longer in size and have the same width if I remember, but the cost of these are much higher in costs. Now in order from you to use either one of these systems you will need to purchase a holder which holds the filter in place on the lens, as well you need to purchase the lens ring which holds the holder onto the lens.<br />
<br />
What makes this a good system, is that you can have a set of filters that you have purchased and use them on most of your lens that you have just by getting the &quot;Ring&quot; for the lens for the holder.  Therefore you can cut your costs down.<br />
<br />
<b>Lets look at Graduated Filters</b><br />
<br />
Now I know for a fact that the Cokin and Lee filter systems make these as well has other manufacturers.  These types of filters are great for cutting the light from bright skies, water etc.  The nice thing is that you can adjust the filter up and down in the folder to place the ND Filter where it is needed, and you can even angle the holder to cut light from one corner in your subject matter that may too bright for your liking.  There are 2 things that you need to think about with these ND filter systems and they are weather you want &quot;Hard Graduation or Soft Graduation&quot;  So the image below to see the difference.  <br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/nd-filters/lee_nd_grad.png" border="0" alt="lee nd grad" /><br />
<br />
The ones that I use are the ones on the right &quot;Soft&quot;.   I mainly use these to tone down the brightness in the skies and they come in 3 strengths.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Here are the values that may explain to you better on how much light is cut out.<br />
</b><br />
<div class="cms_table"><table class="cms_table_outer_border"><tr valign="top" class="cms_table_outer_border_tr"><TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">Neutral Density</TD>
<TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">Stop Value</TD>
<TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">Transmission %</TD>
</tr>
<tr valign="top" class="cms_table_outer_border_tr"><TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">0.3</TD>
<TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">1</TD>
<TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">50</TD>
</tr>
<tr valign="top" class="cms_table_outer_border_tr"><TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">0.6</TD>
<TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">2</TD>
<TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">25</TD>
</tr>
<tr valign="top" class="cms_table_outer_border_tr"><TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">0.9</TD>
<TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">3</TD>
<TD class="cms_table_outer_border_td">12.5</TD>
</tr>
</table></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
As you can see in the values at how much these ND filters cut down light.  Note, that these filters you can stack them all giving you a total stop value of 4 plus.  <br />
Now I have found with the Lee Filters that they now have a 10 f/stop version but this is made of glass and not cheap at all, and easy  to break.<br />
<br />
Even with these 2 types above, you can use them to get that milky effect on water by using one or more of the filters which is a neat effect.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Lens Mount Neutral Density Filters</b><br />
<br />
These types of filters come in the same strengths as above plus more from 4 to 10 f/stops in fact now keep in mind that these filters don't have graduations they are full coverage type filters.  But there is another type I will talk about shortly.  These filters are all glass, and come in different price ranges, my take on filters is that you get the best ones out there to insure no image quality loss.<br />
<br />
Now the one thing that you should keep in mind is that you don't want to stack a couple together since you might see the corners of the images &quot;vignette&quot; become dark around the corners.  Now the one thing about these filters is that it gets very expensive to carry a range of these ND filters and if you are buying name brand high end there is a few dollars being tied up.<br />
<br />
<b>Fader Neutral Density Filters</b><br />
<br />
The new thing out is the so called Fader filters, these filters allow you to dial in the strength you need from say 2 to 8 f/stops and some also go as far as 10 f/stops.  So as you can see that having a filter like this is well worth having in the camera bag since this would cover most bases that you would need.  See image below.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/nd-filters/cameron-fader.jpg" border="0" alt="cameron fader" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Again the price ranges can go from a few hundred dollars to just over $100.00 and as I mentioned before that I like to get the best filter out there, but wait a second... For me I don't use a ND filter a whole let in the past, but I have started to use this one that is in the picture and I went the low end for the simple reason I don't use one a whole lot.  But after using this filter I was surprised at how well this performed for me with the images I had taken.  What the Fader Filter really is, is 2 polarizing filters put together that is it.  If you have sun glasses that are both polarized take them outside put one on and the other slowly turn the other one and it has the very same effect.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>How to use the ND Filter</b><br />
<br />
Well the graduation types are really meant for cutting the light down from bright sky areas and is straight forward here.<br />
<br />
Now the regular type filters &quot;Including The Fader&quot; will cut the light on the overall image, but let's use water as the subject here to explain how to use these.<br />
<br />
Lets first discuss the use of the none fader filter first and lets talk about using the 10 f/stop filter.<br />
<ul><li style="">Remove any current filter from the lens</li><li style="">Adjust ISO and Aperture settings that you want</li><li style="">Focus on subject</li><li style="">Put the lens in manual mode</li><li style="">Screw on the 10 stop ND filter, careful not to move the focus ring on the lens.</li><li style="">Check the cameras settings to see if they are correct for you</li><li style="">If very low exposure times, make sure to cover the eye piece on the back to prevent stray light from coming in</li><li style="">Use a cable release and or the camera's timer</li></ul>The reason why the filter is off the lens at first is to allow you to focus on the subject, you cannot focus on the subject with the 10 stop ND filter.  I'm not sure how far down you can go in order to get the camera to focus on a subject, but that is easy enough to find out.<br />
<br />
<b>Now the Fader ND<br />
</b><br />
You would do the same, but in this case you can put the filter on and at the lowest setting.  Focus on subject and put the camera lens in manual mode again, press the shutter button half way and get a reading and turn the filter in the same direction that it was screwed onto the lens and now watch your shutter speed, you may need to tap the shutter button again to see the settings, and turn down the ND Fader to where you want the time to be at.<br />
<br />
Just a note, that these filters really come in handy and work very well with water and giving that milky effect.  Now the one thing I found that if you want some texture in the water use an exspoure of 2 to 3 seconds or just a bit more, now for the real milky look you can start at 8 to 25 seconds.  Start off low and see if you like the effect if not make some adjustments to your exposure times.  I hope that for some that this Blog was of some use and that you got something out of this.<br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=245&amp;d=1309105955" border="0" alt="Name:  Credit_River.jpg
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Dennis</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
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			<title>LightZone Software</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/lightzone-software-107/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 14 Jun 2011 20:10:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>LightZone is software that I had purchased a few years ago, and use it from time to time with difficult images that I want to save.  LightZone can be...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">LightZone is software that I had purchased a few years ago, and use it from time to time with difficult images that I want to save.  LightZone can be used as a Stand Alone, or you can run this within Lightroom and I found that using this software through Lightroom worked better for me.<br />
 <br />
So what is LightZone here are the key features<br />
 <hr /><br />
<b>Key Features of LightZone:</b><br />
 <br />
<ul><li style="">Relight tool</li><li style="">Colorized Black and White</li><li style="">Hue/saturation</li><li style="">Noise reduction</li><li style="">Modify live RAW adjustments</li></ul><ul><li style="">Selections and Masks</li><li style="">White Balance</li><li style="">ZoneMapper</li><li style="">Sharpen</li></ul><ul><li style="">Blur</li><li style="">Color Balance</li><li style="">Clone and stamp</li><li style="">Red-eye removal</li></ul><hr /><br />
<br />
As you can see you can do quiet a bit with this software, now you can use other software to do the same thing like Capture NX, Photoshop and even Lightroom these days.  But there are a few items here that come in handy with this software that I use with tough images that I want to try to save from going to the trash can.  So the areas that I found that really help save an image is the Relight, White Balance (Standard) and Zone Mapper.  These are the areas that I use a lot for troubled images.<br />
 <br />
<b><u>Full Screen Image of LightZone</u></b><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/LZ-demo\full-screen.jpg" border="0" alt="LZ demofull screen" /><br />
 <br />
As you can see it comes with some Preset Styles on the left side of this image.  One top is the standard functions like crop, rotate etc:  But on the right top is where you can make all the adjustments to your images.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b><u>Zone Mapper Adjustments</u></b><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/LZ-demo/ZoneMapper.jpg" border="0" alt="ZoneMapper" /><br />
 <br />
This adjustment tool is based on the <b>Ansel Adams</b> zone system he developed for Black &amp; White Film.  So what we have here is the image on the top and the grey scale on the bottom now if you run  your mouse up and down this grey scale you will see <b><font color="yellow">Yellow</font></b> displayed on the image above reflecting the Whites, Shadows and Dark areas within your image so far you still with me?  So as you can see sort of the jet itself is a bit on the dark side and I want to open the shadow area for that part of the jet.  So what I do is move up and down the grey scale and fine the area that I want to open the shadows on the jet, <u>notice the cursor in the grey scale area</u> that is the point I want to change in the image.  If you left click the mouse and hold you can adjust that area by going up to make the area lighter and down for darker, you can do this for multiple selections within the image.<br />
 <br />
I really like this feature for making fine tuned adjustments and this is the first thing that I use within this software.<br />
<br />
<hr /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b><u>Relight Adjustments</u></b><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/LZ-demo/Relight.jpg" border="0" alt="Relight" /><br />
 <br />
I think that this area pretty well explains what it does here, again you can control the shadows and hight light areas in your image and can add some details as well.<br />
<br />
<hr /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b><u>White Balance</u></b><br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/LZ-demo/white-balance.jpg" border="0" alt="white balance" /><br />
 <br />
I always use the White Balance,  just click on the Eye Dropper and pick a White spot in your image that you want.  You should always try to use a White Point in your images it really does help overall to get the proper white balance within your images.<br />
 <br />
In all LightZone does a great job, the only thing that I would like to see is that this software be run from Photoshop to make edits, but I don't see that happening even with the talked release of version 4.0 which should be released anytime soon.  Still even with that said, it is software that is worth keeping around.  The cost for this software is $99.95 US funds.  There is also a 30 day trial that you can download click link ---&gt; <a href="http://www.lightcrafts.com/lightzone/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"><font color="#ff0000">LightZone</font></a><br />
<br />
<hr /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
Test Images, Permission given from<u><b> Larkspur </b></u>to use.<br />
 <br />
Larkspur posted this image and she really was not all that happy with it.<br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/LZ-demo/larkspur.jpg" border="0" alt="larkspur" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
So I was looking at this and decided to give LightZone a try with this, and found that is worked out really well with some of the adjustments.  I'm not working with the original image but think that the software did rather well in the slight adjustments made to her image.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/LZ-demo/larkspur_lzn.jpg" border="0" alt="larkspur lzn" /><br />
 <br />
 <br />
As you can see that it helped some what with the blown highlight areas and toned down in the mid tone areas.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b><u>Conclusion</u></b><br />
 <br />
As I mentioned that you might get the same results with other software like Photoshop, Capture NX and or Lightroom.  But I found that this software worked faster in getting the results than the software mentioned from the edits that I have done with this software.  Is it worth getting just depends on your take on the software and the price I guess but as I mentioned download the trail version for 30 days and see what your take is on the product.<br />
 <br />
As I mentioned that this are the key areas that I use and find useful for me and I'm sure there are other areas that I should explore more of.<br />
I would also like to see what they have changed in version 4 as there is no mention to what has been added to the software.<br />
<br />
Again thanks Larkspur for the use of these images.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
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			<title>2 to 8 f/stop Fader ND Filter</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/2-8-f-stop-fader-nd-filter-106/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:53:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>---Quote (Originally by Dennis)--- 
I have become fascinated with seeing some water landscape images which goes back a couple of months now. The...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore"><div class="bbcode_container">
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					<img src="images/Seamus/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Dennis</strong>
					<a href="showthread.php?p=34024#post34024" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/Seamus/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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				<div class="message">I have become fascinated with seeing some water landscape images which goes back a couple of months now. The reason for this was that we are heading out on a camping trip to Algonquin Park which has a lot of water and some very nice landscape in the area.<br />
 <br />
The one thing that stuck out when viewing them was a 10 Stop ND filter which cuts the light coming into the camera and allows to get those very low shutter speeds to make the water smooth, or even water falls looking milky. I really love this effect and since viewing those images have been drawn to this type of photography, even so I was send emails back and forth with my buddy Don, who also loves the effects.<br />
 <br />
After seeing these images I decided that I was going to get the filter, but not sure if I wanted to spend that amount of money at this time as there is really no opportunities to use the filter all that much in our area. However there is a place that I know just about an hours drive from home. I ended up with the Cameron Fader 1 -10 Stop ND filter for $100.00. Now using this sort of filter needs to be down right, or the results will not be pleasing to you or frustrating.<br />
 <br />
For the fader ND you put the filter in it's weakest strength, auto focus on the subject, and then place the lens in manual mode. Now adjust the ND filter to max strength, you can now check to see if the cameras settings are low enough for you. IMPORTANT NOTE... Make sure before you take the shot make sure to close the eye piece most have a little lever in that area to do this. If not cover it up the best you can, if not light will enter the back and you will not get the results that you hoped for.<br />
 <br />
If you use the 10 Stop only filter, auto focus on the subject, put the lens in manual mode and now be careful to place the filter on the lens with out moving the focus point, and the rest as above.<br />
 <br />
Now I suggest in order to get the cameras shuuter speed down, select low ISO speed, and F/18 or more for the aperture and then check to see if you are around 3 seconds or more should be good enough. Tripod and shutter cable release is a must here.<br />
 <br />
Not the best images or lighting, but it does give that water a nice look to it. In this case if the waves had been coming in harder might have givin a better effect. I think that this would work well in very early morning and later in the evening, and for any water falls. Also look at the EXIF Data on the left and notice the Shutter, these are in seconds, and that last one being 5 seconds produced a good result.<br />
These images were taken in Lake Ontario, again just wished the waves came in harder.  Not bad results for my first tests, and hope to share some of our upcoming trip using this filter.<br />
 <br />
<b><u>First Test Images, taken with Cameron 1-10 Stop ND Filter</u></b><br />
 <br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/nd1-test.jpg" border="0" alt="nd1 test" /></div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;">EXIF DATA</div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Date: 25/05/2011</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Time: 7:44:05 AM</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Model: NIKON D700</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Lens (mm): 70</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">ISO: 160</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Aperture: 18</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Shutter: 3</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Exp. Comp.: +0.7</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Program: Aperture Priority</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Focus Mode: MANUAL</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">White Bal.: AUTO</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Contrast: </font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Sharpening: </font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Quality: RAW</font></font></span></div> <br />
 <br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/nd2-test.jpg" border="0" alt="nd2 test" /></div> <br />
 <br />
<div style="text-align: left;">EXIF DATA</div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><b><font size="3"><span style="font-family: Calibri"><font color="white">Image: DSC7145</font></span></font></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Date: 25/05/2011</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Time: 7:45:07 AM</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Model: NIKON D700</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Lens (mm): 70</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">ISO: 160</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Aperture: 18</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Shutter: 2</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Exp. Comp.: +0.3</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Program: Aperture Priority</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Focus Mode: MANUAL</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">White Bal.: AUTO</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Contrast: </font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Sharpening: </font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Quality: RAW</font></font></span></div> <br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/nd3-test.jpg" border="0" alt="nd3 test" /></div> <br />
 <br />
EXIF DATA<br />
 <br />
 <br />
<b><font size="3"><span style="font-family: Calibri"><font color="white">Image: DSC7146</font></span></font></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Date: 25/05/2011</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Time: 7:45:49 AM</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Model: NIKON D700</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Lens (mm): 70</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">ISO: 125</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Aperture: 18</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Shutter: 5</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Exp. Comp.: +0.3</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Program: Aperture Priority</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Focus Mode: MANUAL</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">White Bal.: AUTO</font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Contrast: </font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Sharpening: </font></font></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri"><font size="3"><font color="white">Quality: RAW</font></font></span></div>
			
		</div>
	</div>
</div>Below is an image of the filter I bought, as I said cheap, but good enough for the amount of use that I would get.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
<img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/Cameron-Fader.jpg" border="0" alt="Cameron Fader" /><br />
 <br />
One last note:  You can get the more expensive filters from Singhray, B+W, Lee and tiffen etc.  Some like Singhray have the vari filter the same as the Cameron, the others only carry the 10 f/sop ND.  But if you don't do enough shooting around water or waterfalls you my want to consider starting out with the cheaper version.<br />
 <br />
With the Singhray and Cameron filters you can focus on the subject in the weakest setting and put the camera lens in manual mode and dial into the strongest point till you get the shutter speed you want.  Now with the 10 f/stop filters you need to focus on the subject first, place the lens in manual mode and then place the 10 stop ND on the lens.  I find that having a Fader type ND is easier to dial in on the exposure, and the main thing to remember is that you need to close the eye piece either with the switch on the back or a dark towel, you don't want stray light coming in from that area, and trust me you need to cover it up or the exposure will be wrong.<br />
 <br />
To get longer expoure time drop down to f/22 and ISO 100 and adjust from there, in these samples I had the ISO at 160 could have gone down to 100 to get a longer exposure time and even from f/18 to f/22 is another stop down for more time.  Fun to play around with this filter.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/2-8-f-stop-fader-nd-filter-106/</guid>
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			<title>Low Angle Shooting</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/low-angle-shooting-105/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jun 2011 19:11:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[How many of you thought about getting some low angle shoots of birds on a beach or even in mud flats? Sure I'm one, and even thought about "The...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">How many of you thought about getting some low angle shoots of birds on a beach or even in mud flats? Sure I'm one, and even thought about &quot;The Skimmer Ground Pod II&quot; But $100.00 for a piece of plastic that I'm sure will do a good job just cannot get past the cost of it. Another one that Don and I have heard and talked about was a frying pan, yes that is what I said, remove the handle from the frying pan and insert 1/4 XX in the center and now you have a Skimmer for the beach or mud flats.<br />
 <br />
But wait..... I have an idea that I was sitting outside one night and was thinking about our camping trip and the Loons on the lake sometimes will come in close to shore as well as other types of shore birds. So I have a bean bag which I was going to take up with me, but then I had this thought to use the bean bag on the beach but needed to keep the sand of the bag, and BINGO it came to me a <b><u>Frisbee</u></b>. This will keep the sand off the bag and it will allow you to place the camera in postion by sliding it around in the sand or mud flats if the subject moves around.<br />
 <br />
No need for a ball head as the bag itself can be used in two ways upright with the ends of the beam bag towards the bottom, or invert it and you have a V to place the camera and lens, and heavy enough to be stable.<br />
 <br />
Now off to purchase a frisbee and run some tests at home to see how stable this will be, even though still an option for some low angle shooting and think this will work out just fine.</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/low-angle-shooting-105/</guid>
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			<title>Battle At F-Stop Ridge</title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/battle-f-stop-ridge-104/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 May 2011 19:24:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Don sent the local guys here a link to this and I thought I would pass this onto the members.  I really thought it was funny and enjoyed hearing all...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Don sent the local guys here a link to this and I thought I would pass this onto the members.  I really thought it was funny and enjoyed hearing all those shutters going and the humor behind this video.<br />
Good thing that my cameras were not ipart of this video Ouch!<br />
 <br />
We at The Camera Store take photography a little too seriously. Here's proof.<br />
(No cameras were harmed in the making of this film.)<br />
<br />
 <br />

<iframe class="restrain" title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/awq90APEVgw?wmode=opaque" frameborder="0"></iframe>
</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/battle-f-stop-ridge-104/</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[For those of you that don't know this little trick, I do it in PS]]></title>
			<link>http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/those-you-dont-know-little-trick-i-103/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 May 2011 16:54:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Blending Tip 
  
I found this tip and tried it out and it works pretty good. 
  
I take the color image and make a duplicate layer so now have two...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Blending Tip<br />
 <br />
I found this tip and tried it out and it works pretty good.<br />
 <br />
<div style="text-align: left;">I take the color image and make a duplicate layer so now have two layers of the same image.<br />
I then add a third layer and convert it to B&amp;W. You can use whatever conversion method you want, but the trick is to get a good amount of tonal range in the conversion. <br />
Once I'm happy with the B&amp;W layer, I take it and move it one step down, so it's sandwiched by the two color layers. Your image will now be color again since the B&amp;W layer is below the color one.<br />
Now, take the top color layer and change the blending mode to &quot;Color&quot;. You should see a pretty dramatic change in the image.<br />
You can adjust the opacity of the B&amp;W layer to taste or you can even add a layer mask to it and selectively mask in or out the effect on parts of the image.</div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;">Depending on what you use to convert the image to Black &amp; White, you may not to need to duplicate a third layer as some will make the layer on there own.<br />
You can use this tip for your landscape images as well. I just did this to see the process and with a bit of fine tuning and playing around with it a bit I could see some use in this. One thing is to play around with some black and white settings until we get the results we like. </div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><b><u><font size="3"><font color="mediumturquoise">Sample Images</font></font></u></b></div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;">In the first image I resized and nothing else was done to this one.</div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/blend1.jpg" border="0" alt="blend1" /></div> <br />
 <br />
<div style="text-align: left;">In the second image here again only resized the image, and did the above process.</div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/blend2.jpg" border="0" alt="blend2" /></div> <br />
 <br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><b><u><font size="3"><font color="mediumturquoise">Final Image, Viveza and sharpen work flow</font></font></u></b></div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;"><img src="http://www.icurdigital.com/dennis/blend3.jpg" border="0" alt="blend3" /></div> <br />
<div style="text-align: left;">As you can see that it does add some pop in the final image. Again, images 1 &amp; 2 are to show you the difference in the process only, but I think that this PS tip does work and one that I will use when ever the need.<br />
The only thing in the final image would be to adjust the brightness down just a tad more?</div></blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Dennis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.icurdigital.com/forums/blogs/dennis/those-you-dont-know-little-trick-i-103/</guid>
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